Krottenseer Turm
5+ – 7a+ · 4 routes · limestone · French
- Approach 12 min — forest track from the lay-by on the Krottensee road, then a marked path to the tower base
- Best season April to early June and September to October, in the morning.
- Published
- Updated
Krottenseer Turm is one of the classic mid-grade crags of the Frankenjura: a free-standing dolomite tower with pocketed walls on all sides, short routes, and a level forest floor that makes it comfortable for a group.
What is here
Routes run from 5 to 7c around the tower, with the easier lines on the north side and the harder ones on the south-facing overhang. The pocket style means the movement is very readable — you can see the sequence from the ground.
Because the tower is short, most routes are 12 to 18 metres, which makes it a good crag for a half day rather than a full expedition.
The Frankenjura routine
Local climbers arrive early, climb until the sun hits the wall, then move to a shaded crag for the afternoon. Krottenseer Turm is a morning crag: the south face is in sun from mid-morning and becomes unpleasant in summer.
Friction is best on cold mornings. In April and October the difference between 08:00 and 11:00 is often a full grade.
Access
The crag is in working forest. Do not block forest tracks, keep dogs on leads, and expect logging traffic on weekdays. Some sectors close seasonally for raptor nesting — check the signs at the car park.
Routes · 4
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Hold types crack · jam · mantle
Open beta
Short crack on the west arris. Hand jams work better than face holds; tape is useful.
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Hold types pocket · sidepull · crimp
Open beta
The tower's signature line on the south face. Two-finger pockets all the way with a technical step-through at mid-height.
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Hold types jug · pocket · slab
Open beta
Friendly pocket climbing on the north side. The standard warm-up and the best route here for a first limestone lead.
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Hold types pocket · undercling · lock-off
Open beta
Overhanging pocket wall on the east side. Powerful for the grade; most people need to kneebar to clip the third bolt.
Crag ethics
Crag ethics
The Frankenjura convention is that you do not climb on wet rock and you do not add bolts. Top-roping through the fixed gear is acceptable only where the anchor was placed for it.
