Burbage North
V0 – V3 · 4 routes · sandstone · V-scale
- Approach 5 min — flat path along the base of the edge from the Ringinglow road parking
- Best season September to April. The edge is exposed to wind, which helps in summer but can make winter sessions short.
- Published
- Updated
Burbage North is the best place in the Peak to learn to climb on gritstone without a guide. The boulders are low, the landings are soft heather, and the easy problems are numerous enough to fill a whole day.
The climbing
Short problems on rounded edges, mostly in the V0 to V3 range, with a couple of slightly harder lines for when you want a project. The rock is the same coarse grit as Stanage but slightly less polished because it sees fewer people.
Expect to use your feet more than you expect. Gritstone punishes pulling and rewards standing up on small edges.
The best first visit
Walk the base of the edge from north to south and try one problem per boulder. The landings are soft enough that a single pad and a friend is plenty, and the descents are all walkable, which makes it safe to try things at your limit.
The lower edge also stays dry in a westerly wind and dries very quickly after rain because it is fully exposed.
Practical notes
Park on the Ringinglow road or at the Upper Burbage Bridge lay-by and walk in. There are no toilets at the edge; the nearest are at the Fox House pub, which also serves food and is a ten-minute drive away.
Routes · 4
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Hold types slab · friction · mantle
Open beta
Low slab above soft heather. A good place to learn how gritstone friction feels when it is cold.
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Hold types traverse · jug · sloper
Open beta
Ten-metre traverse at chest height on good holds. The pump builds faster than you think on grit.
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Hold types arete · sloper · heel-hook
Open beta
Short arete on rounded holds. Use both sides of the arete and keep your hips square.
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Hold types sidepull · crimp · mantle
Open beta
Technical bulge with a committing finish. The last move is easier if you keep your left foot low and push rather than pull.
Crag ethics
Crag ethics
Do not pull bracken or heather. Chalk is brushed off at the end of the session; tick marks are removed.
