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Frankenjura

Germany · 49.72, 11.42

A forest of dolomite towers in Bavaria, north of Nuremberg. Pocketed limestone walls two to twenty metres high, climbed on the French scale, with a strict local ethic and a long history of hard first ascents.

  1. 3 Crags
  2. 12 routes
  3. 3 Grade bands
  1. Phoenix Bereich V9+ 8b+ – 9a limestone 4 routes

    The Phoenix sector is a small, steep, hard wall in the heart of the Frankenjura, home to some of the hardest pocket climbing in Germany. There is no easy climbing here and there is no rea...

    Best season October to November and March to April. Cold, dry mornings only. · Approach 10 min ·

  2. Walberla V6–V8 7a – 8a limestone 4 routes

    Walberla is the best-known crag in the Frankenjura: a long dolomite wall on the Ehrenbürg hill with pocketed limestone, a short approach, and a full spread of grades from 5 to 9a. It is a...

    Best season April to June and September to October. Summer is humid and the pockets stay damp; the crag can be climbed in winter on mild, dry days. · Approach 15 min ·

  3. Krottenseer Turm V3–V5 5+ – 7a+ limestone 4 routes

    Krottenseer Turm is one of the classic mid-grade crags of the Frankenjura: a free-standing dolomite tower with pocketed walls on all sides, short routes, and a level forest floor that mak...

    Best season April to early June and September to October, in the morning. · Approach 12 min ·